Fashioning Identity: Status Ambivalence in Contemporary Fashion

Fashion serves as a mirror of identity, yet contemporary culture has fundamentally altered how we use clothing to express ourselves.

This book examines the paradox of modern fashion: while democratization through collaborations, social media, and instant trend cycles has made style more accessible, it has simultaneously blurred the lines between authentic self-expression and curated social performance. 

Through compelling case studies—spanning aging fashion icons to the calculated minimalism of normcore, Kenyan soccer culture to European metal subcultures, the author investigates how identity is constructed and communicated through what we wear.

The analysis considers pivotal elements including temporal shifts, gender dynamics, embodiment, memory, and cultural resistance within today's fashion landscape. 

Building on decades of fashion theory, this work reframes the concept of identity ambivalence as "status ambivalence," revealing why crafting a coherent personal style has become increasingly complex in our interconnected world.

Author Biography

Maria Mackinney-Valentin is an Associate Professor at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, School of Design, Denmark.